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Calico Museum of Textiles: Under The Veil

Entrance gate of Calico museum of textiles in Ahmedabad

Entrance to Sarabhai Foundation’s ‘The Retreat’ which houses the Calico Museum ©Sarabhai Foundation

If you’re visiting Ahmedabad & are a heritage-lover, don’t miss this unique tour of one of the most breathtaking collections of Indian textiles to exist. From what fashionable Mughal royals were wearing in the 15th century to present-day regional embroideries, the museum weaves a rich tapestry of India’s textile prowess.

The museum sits in the well-laid premises of The Retreat, a private property of the notable Sarabhai Foundation. The property, consisting of the grand residential Haveli and beautifully landscaped gardens was designed in the 1930s for the Sarabhai Family and currently houses a few additional buildings in the archetypal Gujarati Pol mansion style. The Havelis are clustered around gorgeous courtyards, against the background of a lush botanical garden and the melancholy of flowing water (look out for peacocks!).

The Foundation organizes garden tours in addition to the museum tours, all of which are free but need to be booked online prior to the visit as each tour accommodates only a handful of visitors. This was something I really liked as it allowed for a more personal & engaging experience. Phones/ cameras must be left at the front gate, thus avoiding distractions during the tour. The collection is divided into 2 categories — textiles and artefacts. These are housed in separate locations and there are separate tours for each. I was careful to double-check that I had indeed booked the ‘Chauk’ textile tour that I was so keen on.

Courtyard with havelis in Calico museum of textiles in Ahmedabad

Courtyard with the Havelis ©Sarabhai Foundation

Normally the post-lunch period combined with a 2-hour museum visit screams sleep. But this tour is designed to keep you captivated. The collections are organized by type into several rooms that you wind through one by one, eventually ending up in the foyer that you started from. A couple of notes to take here — the rooms are intentionally dimly lit as this preserves the materials & dyes of the fabrics longer. Once the eyes adjust, it isn’t a problem though. Since the museum is essentially a repurposed mansion, you will experience multiple levels and spaces of varying heights. The floor too is soft due to being made by traditional methods. Shoes not being allowed inside is barefoot bliss. As the mansion is built using local vernacular materials and techniques, it is unlikely that you will feel the heat of Ahmedabad in the interiors.

Traditional Gujarati textiles inside Calico museum of textiles in Ahmedabad

Traditional Gujarati textiles ©Sarabhai Foundation

As she gathered us around in each chamber to narrate the stories behind the exhibits, our quick-witted guide would engage in banters with everyone who posed questions. As the tour went on, we milled around in rooms, went through tunnels, spread out in halls, always in a continuous flow. It was a seamless, informal way of experiencing not just the art but also the space itself. This is probably more emphasized due to the exhibits being placed right before you, at touching distance. They are protected from weathering & damage solely by plastic films, allowing you to observe the handiwork from up close. Moreover, they are displayed as what they’re meant for, i.e., dresses are either donned on a mannequin or hung on a wall, carpets are laid out on the floor, sarees cascade down walls and tents are stretched out above. Everywhere you see, colours and patterns burst out at you.

There’s a lot to see in each room, with the collection including attire worn during the 15–19th centuries, displays of royal tents and delicate saree embroideries of the 1800s that are the predecessors of what we see today. Some of the threadwork is so intricate & minuscule that it appears to be printed. I remember seeing a design made by tie-dyeing coin-sized portions of the fabric to create a large pattern! There are sarees worn by queens whose embroidery gives off a sheen that comes only from using real gold threads, woven curtains that reveal beautiful designs when the lights switch on, skirts that have more than a hundred gentle panels to them, and so much more….

A Mughal Durbar inside Calico museum of textiles in Ahmedabad

A Mughal Durbar ©Sarabhai Foundation

While I am familiar with the popular regional handicrafts of present-day India also showcased in the museum, I was surprised by how little I knew of our textile legacy. I realized how obscure the stories of handicrafts narrated that day have become. These were techniques passed down through generations of artisan families perfecting their craft; hardly available at any institution. The kind of dedication that weavers & artisans used to have towards a lifelong pursuit of their art is gone, leaving behind masterpieces that cannot be replicated even by the finest designers of today. All we can do is look at it in awe and wonder at the finesse.

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To know morehttps://www.calicomuseum.org.​​​

​References

​Alisha Shah. (2015). Calico. [online] Available at: https://www.slideshare.net/slideshow/calico-51148202/51148202#2. [Accessed 18 Sep. 2024].

Preksha Pancholi. (n.d). Museums of the World: The Calico Museum of Textiles. [online] Available at: https://www.re-thinkingthefuture.com/travel-and-architecture/a9943-museums-of-the-world-the-calico-museum-of-textiles/. [Accessed 17 Sep. 2024].

Wikipedia. (2024). Calico Museum of Textiles. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calico_Museum_of_Textiles. [Accessed 18 Sep. 2024].

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