top of page

Revisiting Bhuj

trippinout_va

A major earthquake in 2001 is how we first heard about Bhuj. Being in elementary school then, I have hazy memories of our school organizing collection drives. We were asked to give away what we didn't need; clothes, food, toys, books, anything to help provide relief. All over the world, countries and organizations had offered help. The earthquake killed at least 20,000 people and destroyed numerous buildings & infrastructure. It was a disaster of global consequence.​

23 years later, standing on a dais in the earthquake simulator room of Smritivan Museum, I experienced the devastation from up close. It is a wonder at what stands resurrected today.

Although Bhuj has been a victim of many earthquakes throughout history, it shows no traces of its past calamities in the present. The government has done an extraordinary job developing the local infrastructure and rebuilding the city. Today, Bhuj is most well-known as a base for those visiting the iconic Rann of Kachchh. Like migrating birds, the annual Rann festival sees people from all around the world flocking to a cultural extravaganza. Being the biggest city near the Rann means that Bhuj transforms into a beehive, with hotels & handicraft outlets doing their best business at this time. In the off-season, it is a modest, laid-back town of historical significance.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Bhuj earthquake impact

Aftermath of the earthquake ©Dipam Bhachech

©VA
Camels pulling carts on the way to Rann of Kachchh

Rann of Kachchh ©Varsha Arun, 2024

​​A traveler's guide to Bhuj

​​When to visit - Bhuj is dry, arid & hot for most of the year. Visit it is during winters as summers are unbearable.

  •  Clubbed with Rann of Kachchh  - Plan to visit during a full moon in any of the months between October and February.

  •  Excluding Rann  (but let's face it - when going all the way to Bhuj, Rann is a must-see) - Monsoon is a good time.

Time required - Bhuj is relatively small & its sights pale in comparison to its neighbor, Rajasthan's attractions. But there are some gems here, like the Aina Mahal & Smritivan Museum. One day (two, if a leisurely visit is preferable) is more than enough to see all of Bhuj's sights.​​​​

How to get around - Shared autos are common & affordable. Riding in one is a fun way to experience the town like a local; you can easily find & switch autos at major junctions. Alternatively, taxis can be booked or cars hired through any of the local operators for a luxurious commute. 

A typical auto in Bhuj

Local auto ©Raina, 2013

​​Reasons to visit Bhuj

  •  Rann of Kachchh , of course! Bhuj is about 2 hours away (80 km) from the Rann's entry point (Dhordo village) and is ideal if you prefer to stay in a city rather than remote alternatives.

  •  Smritivan Earthquake Museum & Memorial  - This is not a typical museum; split levels & interactive displays give you a first-hand experience of an earthquake and everything related to it. It is engaging for all ages and everyone should visit it at least once. Worthy of worldwide recognition and praise, there is more to Smritivan than being a building on a hill. It is a stellar undertaking of the Gujarat government. If nothing else, the stunning yellow-stoned architecture and sunset views from the top of the memorial are alone worth the trip.

  •  Aina Mahal  - A classic example of colonial-Indian style, this 18th-century palace is a mix of Kutchi architecture with European details. Despite several parts having undergone restoration following earthquake damage, the palace is still very beautiful. Although, it is worth mentioning that palaces in Rajasthan are far superior visually & architecturally. Some of the scenes from the movie Lagaan (2001) were shot here.

  •  Local culture  - The district of Kutch & its villages have a lot to explore in terms of handicrafts, textiles and food. Plus, local dance performances and the Bhungas cottages are exciting once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

How to reach - Bhuj is a major bus and railway hub with connections to all major cities of Gujarat. It even has a domestic airport (which is also an IAF base) with flights operating daily from Mumbai & Ahmedabad. 

​​

Attractions (listed in the order of 'must-see' to 'can-visit-if-you-have-time') - 

©VA
Smritivan museum architecture with sandstone

Smritivan Museum ©Varsha Arun, 2024

Colonial Indian style of architecture in the front facade of Aina Mahal

Aina Mahal ©Varsha Arun, 2024

​​​The garbage problem 

​​Bhuj, like most cities, has small amounts of rubbish lying here & there on roads, but the majority of neighborhoods are relatively clean. ​The layout of Bhuj is laid around Harmisar Lake and the main Bus Port (which is very clean and better looking than the chaotic stations of much bigger cities). The railway station & airport are both located on the outskirts to the north (just like the bus port, both are maintained well). These are the landing points for most tourists who, upon reaching here, catch taxis or organized tour buses for their onward journey to Rann of Kachchh. As a result, the tour & taxi operator hub of Bhuj is also clumped around these areas. The hill of Bhujio Dungar on which the Bhujio Fort & Smritivan Memorial are situated, lies to the east. Most of the town interior feels quite safe to go around, even at dinnertime. On the other hand, the outer ring road is the complete opposite. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Map of Bhuj

Map of Bhuj

©Google

trash along the sides of the road in Bhuj
trash along the sides of the road in Bhuj
trash along the sides of the road in Bhuj

Images of apathy ©Google Street View

Unprecedented situations led to me taking a solitary auto from RTO circle in the east to the railway station in the north during the pre-dawn hours of my first morning in Bhuj. The fastest route was to take the outer ring roads of Atmaram Marg & Railway Station Road. Nothing could have prepared me for the sights that lay on the way. What a shock to find large piles of garbage lining both sides of the road! The trash mounds went on without letting up for the entire 4km of my journey. The sight was apocalyptic; a deserted road in the dark, lit only by the headlights of the auto, winding through what can only be described as a landfill, not a vehicle or human to be seen anywhere. There were few cows though, plopped on the medians and grazing as they usually do on the plastic. I had goosebumps on my skin, but not because of the cold air. 

​​​This was not the only strangeness I experienced in Bhuj. Traveling to catch my 10 pm train on the night of my departure, the driver of my auto (a different auto from the previous incident) took the quickest route, i.e., via Station Road which cut through the Madhapara neighborhood. I was met with the worst sight - deserted muddy road with few raggedy stragglers around, potholes filled with sludge, food remnants scattered on the ground, sleazy half-shuttered butcher shops, smelly garbage heaps, poorly-built houses, barely operative streetlamps, goats tied on the roadside & left to graze on dried grass, and such. Even though it was a 10-minute route, I was thinking of how I should have packed a knife. My great relief on reaching the station doubled on finding that the platform was bright & crowded. Quite ironic.

This is a BIG embarrassment for a city touted as a tourist base for the renowned Kachchh festival. Although the railway station/ airport surroundings are kept clean to create perfect first impressions on travelers, the same effort needs to extend beyond these areas.

An intensive clean-up of these neighborhoods is urgently required. Landfill zones need to be identified and a sustainable approach to recycling & waste management can go a long way. The street infrastructure here is highly dated & needs upgradation to the tune of what the Gujarat government is doing in GIFT City. Both the roads facing the garbage problem lie in the vicinity of Aman Nagar (Madhapara) - a locality dominated by people belonging to one particularly problematic community. We can safely say that the people of this community have lost all sense of hygiene and order. It's a wonder how all of Bhuj hasn't been overcome with dysentery. 

​​

The arterial Airport Ring Road too seems to be plagued by the same problem, particularly in its northeast stretch. Being on hilly terrain & isolated from the town center contributes to municipal apathy. Far from criticism, my objective here is to educate oblivious travelers & raise awareness. There is no mention of this anywhere on the internet, even though it is a very real problem. While most of Bhuj is a peaceful, sleepy little town with a rustic charm, parts of it can be daunting for outsiders and they would do better to avoid these areas. 

​​References

Raina. (2013). A Tour of Bhuj. [online] Available at: https://rainafox.blogspot.com/2013/03/a-tour-of-bhuj.html. [Accessed 26 Nov. 2024].

Viki Pandit. (2017). The forgotten tombs of Chattardi. [online] Available at: https://www.vikipandit.com/chattardi/. [Accessed 27 Nov. 2024].

Wikipedia. (2024). Bhuj. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhuj. [Accessed 27 Nov. 2024].

bottom of page